[lead poisoning]

Basing continued…

Part two of a guide over my current basing method, last I showed the advantages of light weight spackle, now I’ll just round up with some finishing touches.

This shows the base after the paint/spacle mixture has dried, I'm also dryfitting the PaK 38/97. I actually did this as the spackle was half dried so I got some depressions from the wheels on the base.

As you may notice the bases of the figures shows slightly, this is because I added a bit to much water to the mixture so it actually shrunk a bit…

I paint the base brown, this isn't strictly neccesary but I like the base to have an even color before I proceed.

As with all my base work I use cheap craft paints for this.

I lightly drybrush the base with a lighter brown paint, the effect is not that noticeable in this washed out photo.

Notice the quite fine and varied texture, this of course depends on the type of  sand used.

Next I paint the bigger stones, I start of with a medium grey (some cheap crafts paint again) a quick black or brown wash, and the a light "wet" drybrush with some light grey.

The stone are natural stones, you can either glue them to the base before adding the spackle or press them into the mixture after it is applied.

Then it's time to superglue the gun, add some tufts and bushes, and the turf and static grass as desired.

After this step I add my “pine forest floor” mixture as described in this post.

My last step basically hides all the work I’ve done before, which I’m the first to admit is rather stupid, but, as I’m doing forest dwelling Finns, it is needed to get the right feel of the army.

So for desert based armies my basing method should work very well, but since it is so quick and easy I’m using it even if most of it is hidden under turf, flock and static grass.


One response to “Basing continued…

  1. Pingback: Yet another basing method « Saturnismus

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